CHASING THE SMALL SWELLS…

All my life I’ve been after the swells, more the glassy blue combers that rise and curl. I was never after the massive waves, like those intrepid surfers who scan the horizon for them and jump into the water with their boards and ride them fearlessly. What I’m really alluding […]

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OF FORBIDDEN FRUITS…

When I was a child in a very Catholic home and a very Catholic school, everything was forbidden…lies were forbidden but I told them anyway and lied about that. In fact every rule was broken but I never worried about it because there was always confession where you were cleansed […]

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